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Untouched ABS system. You can reduce disc temperatures by: 1 - Having a larger disc with bigger, more efficient vents and larger area to be cooled, the downside is added unsprung/rotational mass (although mass helps in another way, next....). You Need: trailing arms, brakes. The way this works is, that it moves entire strut assembly over outer ball-joint forward. Improvement. I and a lot of E30 enthusiasts across the country worked very hard to compile this information and have it available here. Geometrically, these TAs are exactly the same as Z3(I6) from previous section. 5 - Running a brake fluid recirculating valve. Differential Output Flanges. A lot of those brands mislead by using "OE" in their names. There are several ways of doing this conversion: This conversion requires no imagination, as it is a bolt-on. As easy as replacing trailing arms. Used 34mm caliper piston. - The kit, this uses a 312mm re-drilled disc and brackets to suit a BMW sliding calliper. Not having to remove them, saves you a lot of time and aggravation. Literally, bolt on suspension and brakes and you are good to go. I used camber plates to fix caster just enough to reduce rub. e36 M3 is in between. You don't want to try and find parts at a great price, just to have to spend over $100 on bolts. Very easy to find and to bleed. check out the. I strongly recommend using trailing arms that you have on the car. Do quick math and you'll see that final offset of using MZ3 rear results in ET40 final result. Converting to M-Roadster/M-Coupe rear 5-lug = MONEY. 245/40-17 comfortably fits under rear quarter panel on wheels ET41-ET50. A slight improvement in brakes. This is mainly about keeping the disc cool to stop it "warping" and keep the pads cooler so they can operate properly. 34mm caliper piston. ALSO, these TA's are reinforced with A-support beam, and extra support at shock mounting and bearing housing. Something I've considered, but m3 hubs are tough to find at a good price., Chrysler Voyager 302x28mm with redrilled holes(disk offset is near perfect), Volkswagen Corrado G60 280mm. Rear e46M3 is 180mm. Of course the new hard area is more resistant to the pad's abrasion and so as the material around it is worn away it becomes higher, which makes it hotter, and therefore even harder....and so on. Note: The parking brake will not work anymore ! yeah, you'll keep same factory bearing (I'd still replace them) and the extra bonus is that you'll keep axles and diff, so it's a lot less stuff to buy. I've made two sets, one is for DD/Eibach Pro-Kit and one for coil-overs. Enormous rear brakes. In a perfect world, if finances allow, you'll be going this route. The discs DO warp, but only when you press the pedal and this one high spot gets much hotter, rapidly expanding and warping the disc. Centrebore must be enlarged 1mm to fit E30 hub. Literally, bolt on suspension and brakes and you are good to go. There's nothing more frustrating, than trying to find all this hardware while your car is already taken apart. - Race pads will continue to work happily way after normal pads would have totally failed, and often get better the more abuse they get, and race brake fluid can withstand the continued high temperatures. Right to left and left to right, makes them bolt right up. 15" - 280mm (300mm in some motorsport alloys). Personally, if you're going through this conversion, do it right the first time. E36 M3 control arm doesn't only move wheel forward, but it also moves wheel outward by a few millimeters. Very important to find a '96+ E36 M3 to source parts from, but if you can't find all of these parts in one place, put this kit together. E36 use 3-wire ABS sensors, while e30's use 2-wire. The lighter and smaller the brake disc (and wheel/tyre/hub etc) the less energy is needed to spin it faster or slow it down. Cons: expensive (easy $1000) and rare to find. If you assume that the brake system will be used and a hard and sustained way (track-days etc) then the components ARE going to get very hot no matter what cooling you use, but there are ways to allow them to survive the temperatures and work very effectively for a sustained period. Also check the servo is working properly if fitted (a duff servo normally gives you a hard pedal with a lack of braking force) and that the master cylinder seals are good (leaking seals give you a soft pedal, often slowly "sinking" if held under pressure). 2 - Higher coefficient of friction in the pad material. Pros: Do not have to remove trailing arms or disconnect parking brakes. Notice camber plate and where shock is mounted. Can be fitted with Mazda RX7 callipers, Ford Puma(racing) fitted with Alcon 4pots as standard, Mercedes ( most of the higher spec AMG variants), Mitsibishi Lancer ( from Evo 4 onwards iirc), Porsche 911/928/944/959/968/Boxster/Cayenne/Cayman. That added to hubs also being 23.2mm wider, you've officially moved e30's ET20 perfect offset to ET63.2. Many people consider this to be the "right way" to do this swap. The downsides are reduced brake power, reduced cooling from the smaller disc vents and reduced thermal mass. reinforced trailing arms. Z3 (6 Cylinder) rear hub brake options? Personally, I don't know of any BMW or aftermarket wheels in that offset and still be 5x120. Ready made upgrades includes lightweight 4-pot kits and cheaper but heavier sliding caliper kits where the buyer sources second-hand calipers: - RX7 4-pot calliper brackets with 280mm Corrado rotors sold here. I recommend to have a basic understanding of what you're working with and understand basics of your Suspension. No … There are a few ways of doing this and I will cover all of the ones I have attempted on several cars. FRONT: REAR: CV Axles In a one-piece disc this makes the disc form cone-shape as the vented "rotor" part expands but the "bell" part stays cooler and unchanged, in (very rare) extreme cases the vented part can crack right off the bell! This swap/conversion is called many things: E30 4-lug to 5-lug; E30 4x100 to 5x120; E36 M3 and Z3 / 318ti swap; E30 5-lug conversion; E30 5-lug swap; E30 5-stud conversion; E30 5-stud swap; simply E30 5-lug; etc. So a lighter and smaller brake disc will give the car better acceleration, economy and braking (if the brakes magically still worked just the same!). This page was generated at 11:17 PM. Warning of wisdom: I have yet to receive/find a set of stock E36 struts that aren't blown. So, it is a no fit. - The Wilwood 280mm and 310mm 4-pot kits which have 1.38" pistons. Make sure spindles you're getting have good bearings and donor car hasn't been smashed in the front. Because on e36's brake lines come from under the CV axle, these calipers have to be flipped over. Combine "Universal Parts" list with your model application list for full parts list. Modern brake materials no longer gas in anything like the same way, so grilled discs are of FAR less use than they used to, and given that they can crack the main reason people buy them is for the "look". Check that the calipers are in full working order (no sticking pistons, seals etc) and the brake hoses are not worn or cracked. From this point on, if you use trailing arms that are non-e30, you will have to wire up e36 ABS sensors. Color-match the wires and cap off extra wire. Prices on these start at $170 for Bilstein Sports each, and that’s “STARTING AT” on eBay. Many people consider this to be the "right way" to do this swap. If you can't stretch your budget to the bolt-on options, then substantial savings can be made by sourcing callipers from other cars and fabricating your own mounts. You DON'T Need: anything else. This increases the mechanical advantage that the system gives your foot over the force applied to the back of the pads, but like all forms of increased leverage the longer the "lever" the longer the travel needed at the input end. The things people miss are that (1) the disc returns to a mostly non-warped state as soon as you back off the brakes or take the disc off the car for inspection, and (2) machining the disc won't fix it as there is still a hard spot in the iron waiting to start the whole process again once the abrasion or use continues! Quick and easy and gets my nod for being a slightly better option. Pros: complete bolt-on. Downsides are increased unsprung mass (and rotational mass due to the larger diameter), a slight increase in cost if it's a re-drilled one-piece disc or a larger increase in cost if it's alloy bells and rotors. FIT ON BMW E30 ( 318, 325, i, is, e, es ) and more ! Used '96+ E36 M3 control arms from your local BMW shop's scrap bin. In a BMW E30 doing the conversion to a hub of five lugs has several advantages. Fluid boiling can be reduced by: 1 - Running a fluid with a higher boiling point. Some even resort to running higher offset wheels with spacers. This conversion requires no imagination, as it is a bolt-on. Read the whole guide before attempting this project. 1. In the olden days pads used to "gas", where the glue in the material boiled and producing a thin layer of high pressure gas that lifted the pad off the disc using the same principles as a hovercraft uses! Think smart, think ahead. If that camber plate wasn't so awful and functionless, I'd recommend people to do this on the cheap. In the case of brakes, the added clamping force at the pad is offset by a longer travel / softer pedal. Along with trailing arms, you must also use: CV axles and Diff Flanges from MZ3. There is NO NEED to get drilled and/or grooved or funny coloured discs, unless you like the look. Downsides are that in most performance pads they work better when warm/hot, and full race pads hardly work at all when cold, plus increased cost. A common question regarding brake hoses is "Which kit - 4 or 6 line?" However, you may use standard E36 spindles and brakes, I did for a good number of months, but you HAVE to figure out caster. Makes sure rotors and calipers are in good shape, if you're installing used parts. Dimension wise, e36m3 and e30 rotors are very similar. As you can see, there's a difference in height of the rotor. If (like me) you've sourced used arms, remember that MZ3 models came with control arms stamped 465/466, and they are exactly the same as E36 M3 control arms. It should be noted that brake discs juddering through the pedal are not "warped" in the way many people think, in most cases it's because road pads (which are abrasive) have been overheated and a high-spot has formed. This applies to all suspension parts. This setup is simply not plausible without doing wide-body conversion. All ABS-equipped cars have rear discs, so you'll need the 6 Line kit if you have ABS. This is a very crucial part of your suspension and you do not want to take chances. Press and a good large socket selection to use with the press.

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